As the 9th lunar month arrives, the annual sight of yellow flags fluttering returns to Penang. The Nine Emperor Gods culture is deeply rooted here, yet shrouded in mystery due to multiple origin stories. This unique belief system pulses with distinct local character and layers of history. Throughout the month, George Town buzzes with a truly special festive vibe.
The oldest Dou Mu Gong Temple in Southeast Asia stands on Hong Kong Street in Penang. Originally established as an altar on Acheen Street, it was relocated several times before finally settling on Hong Kong Street in 1881.
Khoo Kay Hock, Chairman of Hong Kong Street Tow Boh Keong, recounts that over two centuries ago, during a global pandemic, a group of Fujianese sailors carrying the spiritual lineage of the Nine Emperor Gods arrived in Penang. “What they brought included the Baibing Incense Burner, the Nine Emperor Scriptures, the North Dipper Sacrificial Celestial Dragon Wooden Fish, Xuande Incense Burner and the North Dipper Seven Stars Sword,” he explained.
The temple also safeguards a magnificent gold-threaded temple beam banner crafted during the reign of the Guangxu Emperor. This precious artifact remains exceptionally well-preserved and still hangs in the main hall today.
Khoo shared: “This beam banner was restored. In 2019, the state government granted RM130,000 to hire the same expert who restored Indian PM Gandhi’s clothing.” The 1,500-hour conservation project took nearly two months to complete this historic artifact.
Most of these historic artifacts are rarely displayed, except during the Nine Emperor Gods Festival when treasures like the Sacred Book are unveiled. Among them, the Nine Emperor Scriptures stand unique in ASEAN: a hand-copied masterpiece in ink on canvas, backed with xuan paper for protection. Its inscription “Preserved by Qiu Macheng, 1st Year of Daoguang Emperor (1821)” serves as solid evidence that Hong Kong Street Tow Boh Keong has upheld its rituals for over 200 years.
Even Penang could not escape the global pandemic at the time; the arrival of Fujianese sailors was no coincidence. “The Nine Emperor Gods appeared in their dreams, commanding them to deliver the people,” Khoo explained.
"The Nine Emperor Scriptures detail proper worship rituals: a nine-day vegetarian fast, isolation, and simple attire. Only then did the outbreak gradually ease," he added.
These artefacts are living proof of history. To protect its treasures, Hong Kong Street Tow Boh Keong is generally closed, opening only during the Nine Emperor Gods Festival and on the 1st and 15th days of the lunar month. Visitors must book an appointment to take a tour of the temple.
Beyond housing Malaysia’s oldest Dou Mu Gong Temple, crossing the Penang Bridge reveals the grandiose Butterworth Tow Boo Kong in Seberang Perai, among the nation’s most magnificent. Founded in 1970, this temple initially operated from a humble attap hut. Though relatively young, it has developed distinctive methods to preserve the Nine Emperor Gods tradition.
On the 5th day of the 9th lunar month annually, the Butterworth Tow Boo Kong Temple's Nine Emperor Gods procession becomes Seberang Perai's unmissable event.
Chairman Khor Wan Tat explained: “We reverently place 12 sacred golden statues, Dou Mu, the Deities of Southern and Northern Dippers, and Nine Emperor Gods upon the Imperial Palanquin. During the parade, devotees prostrate themselves as the deities' chariots pass overhead.”
Khor further notes that beyond worship, Butterworth Tow Boo Kong Temple champions its Five Precepts: Religion, Culture, Medical, Education, and Charity. “Through cultural and cross-sector initiatives, we promote and preserve the Nine Emperor Gods belief.”
To systematically safeguard this heritage, the temple recently constructed a Dou Mu and Nine Emperor Gods Cultural Museum at its rear. Housing a dedicated exhibition hall and Taoist Cultural Archive Center, this space preserves historical treasures for future generations.
The 9th day of the 9th lunar month marks both the Grand Birthday of the Nine Emperor Gods and the Double Ninth Festival. Embracing the tradition of hiking, devotees combine worship with hiking at the Penang Thousand Stairs Temple, Qing Guan Si.
Perched on Tian Heng Hill, behind Penang Hill, stands Qing Guan Si Temple, also known as the Thousand Stairs Temple, a 140-year-old spiritual landmark. Back when Dou Mu Gong temples were scarce in Penang half a century ago, devotees would flood this mountainside during the Nine Emperor Gods Birthday celebrations. They came to pray, observe vegetarian fasting, and even stay overnight for spiritual practice, weaving devotion into the misty peaks.
Volunteer Zeng Chunyuan clarifies that the Nine Emperor Gods worshipped here differ from those in urban temples – the temple embodies the Northern Dipper Stars from the realm of the North Pole. “During the lunar September vegetarian fast, we exclusively prepare plant-based meals for visitors.”
Although the Qing Guan Temple is generally believed to have been founded in 1881, an inscription on a stele from the 20th year of the Guangxu era (1894) states that it was established in the Dingchou year. This suggests that the temple may date back to 1877, the third year of the Guangxu era.
“This is a Hakka temple,” explained Zeng. “The caretakers are Hakka, and the sanctuary serves Hakka devotees. About 85% of Balik Pulau and Air Itam’s communities are Hakka. Many Hakka traditionally practice religious arts, which explains our temple's focus on the Sage of Three Teachings (Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism)."
During the visit, it happened to be the birthday of Doumu Niangniang, and the usually tranquil temple bustled with vibrant activity during this period.
When the 9th lunar month arrives, Penangites greet each other not with “Have you eaten?” but with “How many days of vegetarian fasting are you observing?”
During the Nine Emperor Gods' Grand Birthday, devotees wear plain white clothes and practise purification through vegetarian fasting. Temporary vegetarian stalls spring up across neighbourhoods to serve them, with Jalan Madras reigning as Penang's largest vegetarian street hub.
Don't assume vegetarian food is boring! Remember you are in Penang, where even plant-based versions of iconic dishes like laksa and curry mee reinvent the city's food paradise. This is how Penangites expand the culinary map.
The Nine Emperor Gods Vegetarian Diet imposes stricter rules than typical vegetarian diets: five pungent plants (garlic, onions, leeks, chives, and shallots), meat, eggs, and dairy are prohibited. Devout practitioners even require dedicated kitchenware untouched by non-vegetarian items.
Strolling through the vegetarian street hub, you will spot Indian Malaysian devotees dining alongside Taoists. This coincides with the Navaratri festival, a nine-night Hindu celebration of Goddess Durga’s triumph, during which adherents observe vegetarianism for nine days.
Nimalan Sukukumaran, an Indian Malaysian diner at a vegetarian stall, believes that Vegetarian culture bridges the multicultural society. Through shared spiritual practices, it brings Malaysians closer.
Although religions differ, they all guide people towards goodness. The beauty of Malaysia lies in its shared spaces for interfaith understanding, where diversity becomes our common strength.
Reposted in full from The Interview website