Every profession has its champions. As a UNESCO World Heritage city and vital port island, Penang pulses with vibrant energy – nurturing diverse trades that flourish here. From traditional guilds to its iconic Hainanese flavors, we trace the living history etched by generations of Chinese pioneers.
Beyond kinship and hometown ties, early Chinese migrants found community through professional bonds – forming guilds and trade associations. Among these, the Penang Goldsmith Association, also known as Penang Ta Kam Hong, stands apart. It is the world’s only temple honoring the goldsmith trade’s founding master, housing the world’s only statue of Wu Ching.
Founded in 1832, the Penang Goldsmith Association is the oldest organisation in Malaysia's gold, silver and jewellery industry, with a history spanning nearly two hundred years. The association was first established on Bishops Street in Penang, while the Voo Cheng Koo Mew temple on Muntri Street was founded in 1904.
Research on Master Wu Ching is quite limited, and his origins are debated. The most common legend claims he was born on the 6th day of the 12th lunar month in the second year of Emperor Taizu of Song. He loved carving and possessed exquisite craftsmanship. After becoming a renowned master goldsmith, he was summoned to the imperial palace but never returned. Only after his death was he posthumously exonerated and honored with the title of Minister of Works.
The temple houses many historical artifacts. One particularly valuable piece is a handwritten brief history documenting the founding of the Penang Goldsmith Association and its original charter. This record offers a fascinating glimpse into the mutual support among Chinese members within the guild. It reveals that even major life events from birth to death, illness, and old age were considered the shared responsibility of the guild's members.
The most important artefact, of course, is the sacred statue of Master Wu Ching. In the past, there was a unique tradition of rotating temple hosts who would cast moon blocks to determine which goldsmith shop would have the honour of hosting the statue for a period. It was believed that bringing the statue into the shop would bring prosperity to the business.
This exquisite golden crown is only placed on the statue during the celebration for Master Wu Ching’s birthday. It was devoutly donated by the owners of two prominent goldsmith shops of the era: Mr Kuang Lei Xing of Xing Yuan Goldsmiths and the owner of Xiang Yuan Goldsmith. Crafted from 750 gold, an alloy containing 75% pure gold and 25% other metals, the crown is a significant historical artefact of the temple.
At their core, the Voo Cheng Koo Mew and the Penang Goldsmith Association are overlapping organisations based on shared trades and hometown origins. The temple still houses many ancestral tablets of its members. A closer look reveals that these forebears all hail from Taishan County in Guangdong Province.
Mr Chin Chin Wah, Chairman of the Penang Goldsmith Association, explains: “The organisation itself was founded by people from Taishan, and the temple was also built by Taishanese.” In the past, when they needed workers for the goldsmithing trade, they would go to Taishan to recruit. They came here, supported each other, trained as apprentices, and gradually put down roots.
The goldsmithing trade used to be very successful, with the guild having over six hundred members at its peak. However, even though gold prices have reached record highs in recent years, the traditional craft of goldsmithing has gradually faded.
The goldsmith master, Fong, who hails from Taishan in Guangdong, entered the goldsmithing trade at the tender age of 14. Over time, he has come to realise that entirely handmade goldsmithing no longer exists. Technological advancements mean the trade has now almost universally adopted mechanised processes. The traditional craft of hand-forging gold is no longer appealing to the younger generation. Meanwhile, the older masters have reluctantly retired from the profession due to age and the physical demands of the work.
Yet, even amidst this change, stepping into the Voo Cheng Koo Mew today allows one to sense the enduring legacy of mutual support among the Chinese craftsmen of that era — a spirit of cooperation rather than competition.
In Penang, hidden historical treasures can be found in couplets, inscribed plaques and shop signs. In the past, Penang's beautiful scenery attracted many scholars and artists who stayed for a while. That is why their calligraphic works are scattered throughout the city and beyond. The history of signboard culture itself stretches back over 2,000 years. Combine that with the charm of classic Chinese calligraphy and time-honoured brands, and the result is a truly unique aspect of Chinese traditional culture.
Walking through Penang's streets today, you can still spot inscriptions left by famous Chinese masters. Many of these precious works are not confined to paper; they are proudly displayed on plaques at clan cemeteries, guildhalls, temples, schools and other places.
Lim Gaik Siang, former Chairman of the Penang Heritage Trust, revealed that when George Town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, a special plan was drafted called the George Town World Heritage Site Special Area Plan. This plan explicitly included proposals to preserve these old signboards. “They represent a unique aspect of our world heritage,” she explained, “and they’re living proof of our past.”
Today, the Grand FC Hotel, which is now operating as a hotel, still proudly displays the large characters “Fuzhou Association”, which were written by the renowned calligrapher President Lin Sen. This remains a symbol of pride for the Fuzhou community. Over on Penang Street, the Penang Kwangtung and Tengchow Association building features an inscription by the Cantonese calligraphy master Zhu Ruzhen. Walk along Acheen Street and you will see the characters “Rui Kang”, which were written by Kong Xiangtai, a master famous for his distinctive “Kong-style” calligraphy. Finally, the calligraphic plaque “Mu Han Villa” written by the esteemed calligrapher Cui Da Di can be found within the Teochew Puppet & Opera House.
These calligraphic treasures are not far apart – within just a hundred meters, plaques inscribed by famous masters are often spotted. Behind these gilded signs lies the blueprint of Penang's Chinese community, painting a vivid picture of a culturally rich George Town.
One plaque can encapsulate the history of an individual or family. By collecting plaques, we are also collecting these stories.
Wei Guo Hua, custodian of the Zhang Ya Art Centre , often collects old timber from heritage houses. Over time, he noticed something telling: while a house might hold countless pieces of furniture, there is usually only one plaque.
“After collecting plaques for years, you start to see patterns,” he explains. “You recognise the era, the owner's trade, and what kind of mansion would have which style of plaque. Plaques from the Guangxu period tend to be the most magnificent – often carved by master craftsmen in China and shipped over. Baba Nyonya families preferred more ornate plaques, typically featuring red and gold designs. Meanwhile, the Cantonese favored bold black backgrounds with gleaming gold characters.”
It is a shame that with the national signboard standardisation policy rolling out, so many old signs carrying decades of memories have faded away—only to end up being hauled off and burned.
“I met one guy,” Wei shared, “and when I asked to buy his signboards, he told me he almost cried. He said he had helped the government take down hundreds of these. They cart them off to be incinerated. Some signs were so heavy it took four people just to lift one."
“Too slow—that's the hardest part of rescuing these signboards,” Wei lamented. Too slow to save the stories that quietly vanished in the flames. But he refuses to give up. Finding even a few people who still appreciate these signboards in such an uncertain future, and seeing those stories kept alive in homes—that is where he finds his sliver of satisfaction.
Penang, where Eastern and Western cultures converge, carries the historical legacy of the Straits Settlements. Combined with the island’s laid-back lifestyle, this has made it a chosen home for many expatriates. Beyond its geographical appeal, Penang’s culinary scene remains a top draw for visitors.
Located just a kilometer or two from the Malaysian Royal Air Force (TUDM) airbase, Butterworth Café serves unique Hainanese-Western fare—a flavorful testament to transoceanic history and a delicious fusion of Eastern and Western culinary traditions. When the airbase was jointly operated by Britain’s Royal Air Force and the Royal Australian Air Force, “nearby residents mainly depended on this base for their livelihood,” says Cheng Yuew Yee, second-generation owner of the cafe.
The Chinese name "Batawei" has its roots in Hainanese linguistic history: When founder Cheng Sin Kuan (a Hainanese immigrant) first encountered the place name "Butterworth," he adapted it into Hainanese pronunciation—giving birth to the restaurant’s distinctive moniker."
In 1958, thirty-year-old Cheng Sin Kuan opened a restaurant to support his nine children, drawing on cooking skills he had learned while working with Australian military units. Being Hainanese, Cheng Sin Kuan blended Western recipes with Hainanese culinary traditions—creating what would become the distinct "Hainanese-Western" cuisine we know today.
The 1960s brought turmoil to Malaya: the Indonesia-Malaysia Confrontation in 1963, the ongoing Communist Insurgency (since 1960), and the Vietnam War. At the peak of the Vietnam conflict, Australia deployed 50,000 to 60,000 troops. Seeking a strategic hub between Australia and Vietnam, they expanded the Butterworth airbase in Malaya.
Butterworth Café—dependent on the airbase for survival—found itself perfectly positioned during this boom. As Cheng Yuew Yee put it: "More soldiers, better business." Only in 1988, when Australian forces withdrew, did the restaurant shift its focus from servicemen to the local community.
The chef of Butterworth Café recalled, “Back then, ‘BBS’ was the classic combo—Bangers, Bump Nut (fried eggs), and Starch (chips). Aussie troops would walk in and order ‘BBS’.”
Step inside Butterworth Café today, and your eyes immediately catch the tarnished name tags lining the walls—tangible traces left by Australian servicemen. “After drinks, they’d head to Vietnam,” Cheng Yuew Yee explained. They left their tags here as a pledge: Come back safe, and we’ll drink again. If not, your name stays forever.
Each rust-etched tag whispers stories of soldiers’ resigned acceptance beneath duty’s weight—their quiet release etched in metal.
For the third-generation owner, Ken, these memories may feel distant, but the restaurant itself has become woven into the local community's collective experience. He hopes the next generation will continue this legacy—guiding the nearly 70-year-old establishment toward its centennial milestone, preserving both the unique Hainanese-Western flavors and their stories for the future.
Reposted in full from The Interview website